Breakfast

I woke up to my 10:00 AM alarm—still a bit groggy, but thankfully no downsides from the two drinks I had the night before. I freshened up, put on my travel gear, and headed out for another day of sightseeing.

종묘제례 (Jongmyo Jerye)

Today there was a special event at Jongmyo Shrine—the spiritual hub once used by the monarchs of the Joseon era. Twice a year, they host a festival where they reenact the mourning rituals once performed for deceased kings and queens. There were extra activities inside the royal park, with lots of actors dressed in traditional garb and free admission!

I arrived too late for the first ceremony, but there would be another one at 14:00. To kill time, I wandered the grounds, soaked in the spiritual atmosphere, and caught up on some podcasts.

창경궁 (Changgyeonggung)

I wandered over to 창경궁 (Changgyeonggung), the last and only palace I hadn’t visited yet. It’s connected to the shrine grounds and had a small library hosting an event, handing out leaflets and sticker sheets. There was also a “resting zone” with tables and a great view of the palace.

I sat down, did some s(e)oul searching, and spent a while reflecting. I listed and prioritized the things I still want to do while I’m here and I even found time to jot down ideas for a 5- and 10-year plan for myself. I can see why people liked to think here.

The Rites

About half an hour before the next ceremony, I walked back to Jongmyo Shrine to claim a good spot. Along the way, I saw so many actors in traditional clothing that it felt like I’d stepped back in time. Once I got there, I found a perfect spot with a great view of the shrine. But just as the event was about to start, and the place was packed, I was asked to move—apparently I was standing where the performers needed to be. Just my luck.

I quickly found another spot and watched the performance from afar. There was a lot of bowing, chanting, and incense burning. They played funeral dirges on traditional instruments while actors marched in step to pay their respects. It was hard to follow what was happening exactly, but the costumes and performance kept me entertained for a while.

I stayed for about an hour, half-expecting something like fireworks before realizing that wouldn’t make much sense for a funeral. In the end I mostly waited for the couple in front of me to leave—the guy had been done for half an hour and kept nudging his partner—so I could finally get some better pictures. Once my camera roll was full, I left the venue and moved on to my next stop.

명동 (Myeongdong)

The last time I was in Seoul, we stayed at an Airbnb in Myeongdong. It’s a popular area for its shopping streets and food stalls, though it’s gotten a lot more touristy over the past few years.

I am famous in this neighbourhood

I immediately recognized the metro station and instinctively followed the same path straight back to our old Airbnb. I took a bunch of photos of buildings I remembered—including the 7-Eleven we used to visit almost every day.

Last time, there was a super friendly cashier working there. We saw her every day during our 10-day stay, and she was always so kind and let me practice my Korean. On our last day, we even took a photo together! I was hoping to see her again—to thank her properly this time, in my much-improved Korean.

I’d even practiced what I wanted to say on the subway and was a bit nervous standing outside the convenience store. When I went in, there was no one at the register (maybe she was in the back?). I browsed a bit, picked out a trusty kimbap and a drink, and went to pay. I called for the cashier, hoping to see her again, but instead a cranky old man came out and scanned my items. I thought it’d be a bit too weird to show him the photo and ask if she still worked there, so I just paid and left. I still have some time left here—maybe I’ll try again another day.

Shopping

I spent the rest of the day walking around Myeongdong’s shopping streets. Maybe it’s the post-COVID boom, but I don’t remember it being this touristy. There were tourists everywhere, shops blasting K-pop from every corner, food carts lining the streets, and souvenir stalls at every turn. I finally managed to grab a few good souvenirs—and I couldn’t resist picking up more K-pop albums (they’re so much cheaper here!).

After a few hours, it started to rain, so I decided to head back to the hotel to rest and unwind.

I took things a bit slower today to recharge. Philosophizing in the library, casually strolling through Myeongdong, and getting back to the hotel on time to unwind—I felt really satisfied with today’s adventure.