Suwon Fortress

Today I took the train to Suwon, a city famous for its large Joseon-era fortress. I started at the southern gate, which stands right in the middle of a very busy roundabout. I tried to take a few pictures without cars in the frame, but that turned out to be impossible.

From there I followed the remnants of the wall up along Paldal Hill. Luckily the temperature has dropped a bit over the last few days (though it’s still very humid). Walking the wall was really cool — I felt like I had been transported back in time. Along the way I passed small outposts, inlets, and even secret entrances hidden in the trail.

I kept walking until I reached the northern gate, where I noticed an Instagram-girlfriend taking photos of her boyfriend. I asked her if she could take a couple of me as well — which worked out great.

Afterwards I pulled out my travel guide to figure out how to get to the central fortress. While checking the map I spotted a recommended restaurant for lunch nearby. Perfect timing. I ordered Galbi-tang (길비탕 - beef rib stew), which was absolutely amazing.

Hwaseong Palace

After lunch I headed to Hwaseong Palace. Apparently there was a cultural festival happening in the city. There was a fair, a giant cardboard reconstruction of the southern gate, and people dressed as traditional guards. Very cool — except I just missed out on the best parts.

By the time I arrived, they were already tearing down the cardboard fortress. Stages were being set up for dance performances later in the evening, but since I’d be gone by then, they mostly just blocked the view of some of the palace’s more interesting sights. It would have been great to see a show there, but less ideal for just sightseeing.

Nam June Paik Art Center

While preparing for the trip yesterday, I noticed in my travel guide that there’s a museum dedicated to Nam June Paik. His work often uses televisions — the piece with rocks I saw on 2025-10-02 was also his. Since I’ve enjoyed his art before, I really wanted to visit. The only downside: it was a 30-minute bus ride outside of town. I wasn’t sure if it would be worth it, but I had seen everything I wanted in Suwon and still had time to spare.

As soon as I arrived, I knew I had made the right choice. The museum was fantastic. I spent the whole visit wide-eyed and grinning. Highlights included:

It was mesmerizing. I stood there, mouth open, completely hypnotized. Then, 30 minutes before closing, the staff ushered everyone out. (If you close at 17:30, just say so! Don’t claim to be open until 18:00.)

Before leaving, I chatted in English with the man at the front desk, gushing about how much I loved the exhibit. To my surprise, he gave me a complimentary art book — such a kind gesture. (I really should have shared this blog with him.)

I had been dreading the trip back to Seoul — another crammed bus ride and then another half-hour train. But when I checked my transit app, I noticed there was a 'limousine' bus to Seoul Station leaving from the same stop where I’d first arrived. It cost less than two euros for a 50-minute ride. Public transit here is top notch.

Wrapping Up

When I finally got back, I called my parents and went to bed early. Today was such a fun day, and it made me realize that the time I spent recharging yesterday really paid off.